Leek vinaigrette and an insight into my brain.
Help, there's a leek in my kitchen!
Has Spring sprung? Maybe it’s a little too soon, but I always feel like September’s a turning point for produce. And as if on cue, my local grocer has started selling big, white, and sweet leeks this week. Of course, I had to buy one, or maybe it was two, ok it was three.
Leeks are often overlooked as a standalone vegetable. Relegated to being finely diced and added as a base to soups, stews, and slow cooks. But I want to make this bad boy the star.
Welcome to my thought process, let’s set the scene, I’m standing at the kitchen bench, staring at the wall, leek on a chopping board in front of me:
Let’s start with a classic, leeks vinaigrette. But, maybe a bit different.
Cooked leeks taste sweet and are more mellow, whereas raw leeks are crisp with a slightly sweet taste and subtle earthy undertones. Similar to shallots, garlic, and chives. What if we used the leek both cooked AND raw. The main bulk can be the cooked white leek and we’ll swap out the shallot, garlic, and chives in a traditional dressing for the tender inner green pieces of raw leek.
Then we’re left with the tough green tops. Yes, you can save them for stock but what if we used them to hold the white parts underwater while poaching? This will mean the leeks cook more evenly, and the resulting liquor will be delicious. Save it for risotto, ramen, or soup.
I’m going to serve this warm as a snack with good bread (Florets!) and a dollop of aioli (throwback to last week) but it would also be good at room temperature.
Or, yum as a side dish for a roast chicken (preempting next week) or even as a main dish with the addition of an egg and some rice cooked in the leek liquor - that’s fun to say.
Below is an amalgamation of this train of thought and the resulting recipe.
Note: I actually made this for the first time about a month ago, as with all recipes, it gets tested a couple of times before being unleashed on y’all. The flavour and quality of the leeks have definitely improved but they’re always pretty good.
Leeks vinaigrette.
When picking your leek from the shop, try to pick the one with the longest length of white. Also, try not to be swayed by girth. Too thick and they start to become fibrous.
Ingredients:
1 leek
Leek top dressing
1 Tbsp of the light green, most inner part of the leek top, finely chopped
½ garlic clove (optional)
1 tsp Dijon mustard
½ lemon, juiced
Pinch of sugar (optional)
½ cup olive oil
S&P
Herb of choice, dill, tarragon, chervil, thyme, oregano, I used parsley
To serve
Good dense bread
First, let’s break down the leek into four portions.
Cut the dark green portion of the leek off. Pull out the centre light green part and set that aside (this is for the dressing). Cut the remaining white piece into two equal pieces, one will have the root still attached. Clean all four pieces. I find it easiest to tip them on their sides and let the water run through the layers.
Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil. Place the two white pieces of leek into the pot and then layer the dark green pieces over the top. This keeps the white pieces submerged and helps them cook evenly. Place the lid on and simmer for 10-15 minutes, the time will depend on the thickness of the leek. They’re done when you can slide a knife easily through the white piece.
While they’re cooking, make the dressing. Finely chop that light green piece of leek you set aside and place it in a small bowl. Add the garlic, dijon, lemon juice, and sugar. Whisk together. Continue whisking while adding your olive oil slowly, as you did with the aioli (another throwback!). Season with salt and pepper and any herbs you like.
Remove the white parts of the leek from the pot with tongs, allow to drain slightly, and place on a serving plate. Cut the root off and slice them both in half lengthways. While still warm, pour the dressing over the top. You can either eat them warm now or let them cool slightly.
To serve, top with a big scoop of aioli and a pile of bread.
Sides
This recipe may be a bit old school but I’m convinced it’s experiencing a resurgence. Cafe Deco in London had them on the menu last Spring and here’s a cute version with stracciatella.
I’ve used Florets bread here, it’s so deliciously dense and hefty (in a good way). If you don’t want to commit to a whole one, you can purchase a half loaf but it does keep really well. Ours has been hacked away at enthusiastically on the bench for over a week now and it’s still delicious.
I’m obsessed with these candles from Nonna’s Grocer. Especially this custard apple which is unfortunately (or fortunately for my wallet) currently out of stock.
I got swept up in pictures of Susie Ripley’s garden and filled an online cart FULL of spring flower seeds before remembering that my tiny garden needs a lot of work before I absolutely jam it with bee-loving beauties. Next year.
That’s it, that’s all.
Rosie