How to buy wine at a supermarket
Wine chats with Mike
This week, we’re shaking things up just a little bit and talking wine. Specifically, supermarket wine. Cause as much as I love a fruity lil pet nat from an independent wine shop, we’re in a cost-of-living crisis. And we need options.
I’m no expert in wine so we’re going straight to the horse's mouth and we have a guest! Meet our filly with the long brown mane and voluminous mustache, Mike. Who, full disclosure, is my brother.
I’m super lucky in that Mike is an absolute pro at wine and even better, is a pro who isn’t a dick about it. He’s a “don’t save champagne just for special occasions” but also a “Lindeur is one of the best value bubblies on the market” type of guy. While he and his household appreciate the romance, expertise, and history of a ‘nice’ bottle of wine, they also love a glass every night to unwind. And the supermarket is both affordable and convenient. But is it all good? How do you narrow it down? How do I not end up with a sweet, sweet Rosé? Don’t you worry, I’ve got your back, read on.
Rosie: I know you and I know wine has been (literally) in your veins since you were a young gun but for those who don’t, what’s your journey been?
Mike: If we go way back, I started working in a wine shop—The Merchant—when I was 15 in Taupo, where we grew up. At the time, the owner was a chap called Bruce Grant, who was, as it turns out, a bit of an early mentor for me.
He essentially got me—not drinking wine (this was added for legal reasons), but aware of the wine scene—from a very young age. From there, his wife happened to be the guidance counselor at school, and she said, 'Why don't you go and work in a winery over the school holidays?' which I did.
I went to Craggy Range in Hawke's Bay for two weeks. It was amazing, and from there, I realized that I could make a career out of wine.
Initially, I'd always wanted to be a winemaker. So I went to study in Hawkes Bay at EIT, they do an Australian winemaking course. I spent some time working vintages both in New Zealand and Australia before moving to Melbourne and into hospitality for a few years. Then on to London and working at a wine bar called Sager and Wilde, which is just celebrating its 10-year anniversary actually. It was really at the forefront of the natural wine movement. Then back to NZ where I’ve run wine programs at Orphan’s Kitchen, Celeste, Star Wines, and now you can find me on the floor at Cav e Vin.
Ok, let’s get into what we’re here for. Shopping for wine at a supermarket.
I personally normally start with picking a colour, then head towards something I know. For example, I want white, I’m heading to a Sav. But that’s pretty safe, should I be branching out?
Supermarkets are not buying wine, or retailing wine for connoisseurs, they're doing it for safe options for everyday drinking. Sauvignon Blanc, for example, represents probably the best value and safest option for me. The same with Shiraz from Australia, and Melbec from Argentina, whatever those classic safe options are, is what the supermarkets are good at.
So this isn’t the time to branch out and try a Chablis?
Pretty much. I wouldn't actually spend too much time shopping around outside of the big varietals - the chardonnays, the pinots, the sauvignons. If you see something like a Gruner veltliner or Riesling, for example, there's value there for sure. It's just not as safe as buying something like a Sauvignon.
Organic and biodynamic are big buzzwords on the labels at the moment. Do they mean anything?
Look, a lot of people don't realize that organic and biodynamic, means the practice of farming is organic and biodynamic. It's not the wine itself. You need organic grapes in order to make organic wine, you can't just harvest random grapes and then make an organic wine from it. So it's really important and yes, they are slowly becoming more popular and available, for sure. And the supermarkets obviously being at the forefront, they know the trends.
I know supermarkets are convenient and some people’s only option, but is there a price limit before you waste your money and should instead be going to an independent wine shop?
It depends on how you shop. If you're like us, we drink wine at home pretty much every night. We buy the majority of that from the supermarket. It would be that sub-$20 category just because we want a glass of wine.
If you're willing to spend over $25. Yes, there is value there. But bear in mind that it will be from big brands as the supermarket has buying power. For example, Craggy Range at Countdown Ponsonby - which is a fucking great supermarket, will probably have it cheaper than you will find at an independent retailer. Cause as I said earlier, they’re buying for the masses.
But, if you're going for a special occasion, go to a wine shop.
I’m a big judger of wine by the pretty label but what are the key things to look for?
I think we all judge wine by its label. The key things I would be looking for are the region - huge, vintage, and varietal.
So for example, let's say a Rosé, Marlborough, 2022, Pinot noir.
I'd be looking for the place it was grown - Marlborough. The year it was produced - 2022, and that's not to say that there's a particular vintage in mind, but it does have a date on it. And the varietal - Pinot Noir. If it's a Rosé without a varietal, that means it could be anything, even a sauvignon blanc with a splash of syrah in it.
Oooo, while we’re on Rosé, how can I tell if a Rosé is sweet by the label?
This goes for all wine pretty much. Check on the alcohol level. Typically wine sits between 12 and 14%. With Rosé, generally the higher the alcohol level, the less sugar in it. So if you're looking at a bottle of Rosé, you turn it around and it says 10.5% on the back, that extra 1.5% which could have been alcohol is sugar.
So I should be ignoring all the gold, silver, and bronze award stickers plastered all over them?
I’m not big on awards but essentially awards work in that there's a person, (It'll be a white male in his mid sixties-probably should retire) and it’s just their opinion.
Also, it’s important to note that you have to pay to enter the competition and also have enough stock (typically 10,000 bottles) so that if you win, it’s beneficial to the supermarket to purchase and distribute. It's only the big guys with big marketing pockets, the small producers don’t tend to bother or risk getting pushed around.
But in saying that it is guidance, which is what I think a lot of customers or people want. It is helpful to an extent if you just want a Thursday night bottle of something that someone's tried and said is good. But it's not gospel by any means.
Speaking of everyday drinking wine, what do you buy? What’s your most purchased wine from the supermarket?
Yolumba Y series which is from South Australia. It's family-owned still.
They're an enormous company now, but they've been doing really good things, vineyard-wise. It's just the perfect nothing weeknight wine, $14 a bottle.
Last question, I’m going to a friend's house and want to take a bottle, what’s the safest choice?
I would say sparkling and lean. But like, go a bit comical with it because you don't want to spend a lot. So, Lindaur Blanc de blanc, every time.
What is Mike's drink of the summer?
Beer, lager, flavorless lager, Kingfisher.
Last bottle of wine you drank, that blew your mind?
The other week we had some winemakers in at work (Cav e Vin) and we opened a very special bottle of De Moor Chablis, 2020, Chardonnay, 100%, unbelievable.
A recipe you love cooking at the moment?
The first thing that comes to mind is lasagne. I'm very good at lasagne (Rosie note: he is).
The second thing Harissa rubbed pork from the Alison Roman cookbook (me again: he even makes his own harissa, it’s very good).
A drink and snack combo that you love?
I'm just going to go crème de la crème which is the best wine and food match ever. Vin Jaune, a wine from Eastern France with Comte cheese, which is from the same region.
And three things to get the party started?
Booze, music, and freezer treats for snacks afterward.
Beer and wine in the fridge, I'm not too big on spirits but I am a softy for a little gin and tonic. Cocktails I like, but I can't be bothered making them.
Music, we’re doing it for the party, it's not the sort of music I listen to day to day but for the party, Rock DJ - Robbie Williams, Gimme, Gimme, Gimme - Abba.
Freezer treats, little pies, sausie rolls, chicken tenders etc, etc.
Our family has an amazing history of box wine. Chasseur in particular. A red in the pantry and a white in the fridge at all times. Many a camping pillow and birdhouse were made from that packaging. Dicey Wine down in Central Otago is changing the game by putting good wine in a box. It’s $70-$80 but it is almost 3 bottles of wine. Fun for a party!
Really enjoyed this wine and chip pairing guide. I’m a big fan of a cheese flavoured chip so can’t wait to try it with my expertly picked 14%, varietal named Rosé.
That’s it, that’s all.
Rosie xx